ETM RTR / ETM RTR Lite / RTR XL / RTR Alpha / Rizzler Troubleshooting Guide

Estimated range is reliant on too many external factors to provide an exact estimation. Many factors include: Rider weight, inclines / declines, environment temperature, road conditions, aggressive riding vs. passive riding, to name a few. General rule of thumb is it is possible to achieve 1 mile per ah if under the ideal conditions. 

If the battery charges to 100% and goes until 0% with no issues, this is normal expected behavior

No trouble found

Obtain a video of the following:

1. Connect the bike to the charger, showing a solid green light indicating a "Full charge"

2. Turn on the bike, we expect to see 100% which would indicate a functional charger

3. Disconnect the charger from the bike, we would expect to see the display now show an SOC less than 100%

Submit this video to Electro and Company Customer Support for next steps.

The ETM RTR Display reads its SOC (State of Charge) based on current battery voltage. Under load there is a phenomenon known as voltage sag that occurs under load. For example, if your battery is fully charged at 67 volts (RTR Lite) or 84 volts (RTR), and you pin it at full throttle, we would generally expect to see voltage sag anywhere from 6-8 volts (which is normal). Once load is removed, voltage will usually return to its resting voltage which is going to be 6-8 volts higher than the voltage under sag.

Because of this, the display errors on the side of caution and will usually display a state of charge lower than what it really is at. Key cycling the key switch will update the battery voltage reading and you should normally notice an increase in the state of charge.

This is completely normal, and does not mean that your battery is decreasing faster than it has in the past.

Park the bike in the shade for 30 or more minutes and allow the battery to cool down. If the bike display turns back on and the bike returns to normal operation, the internal temperature of the battery pack may have reached the programmed threshold and the BMS has momentarily disabled discharge and charge current in order to protect the cells from further damage or an unsafe event.

This is normal expected behavior. It is recommended to store / charge the bike in a shaded cool area to decrease the chances of reaching the thermal threshold under normal use and operation.

If the QS8 connection is not fully seated or is loose, this can cause an inconsistent voltage delivery which can lead to arch burns on the port damaging requiring repair or replacement.

Please see symptom above for "There is a burning smell" for guidance on cleaning the contacts.

If the connector feels like it's too loose like a hotdog in a hallway, please use a non-conductive tool to gently splay the male pins on the connector for a stronger firmer connection to the female QS8 on the battery discharge port.

Obtain the following video:

1. Connect the bike to the charger, showing a solid green light indicating a "Full charge"

2. Turn on the bike, we expect to see 100% which would indicate a functional charger

3. Disconnect the charger from the bike, turn bike off and back on, expect to see display showing voltage less than 100%

Submit video to Electro & Company Customer Support for next steps.

Is the motor hot to the touch? Are you not able to leave your hand on the motor for more than 1-2 seconds without risk of injury?

Prior to the bike cutting out, did the power start to throttle?

If yes, this may be expected behavior. The controller is programmed to mitigate damage to the motor from overheating, as the motor reaches the thermal ceiling, it is expected to notice power throttling. If it is ignored, power may eventually cut completely to protect the powertrain components from any permanent damage.

If this is the case, it is expected that the display remains on during this event and that throttle response returns shortly after a few minutes. It is recommended to allow time for the motor to cool down by taking it easy until full power returns.

If the QS8 connector is not fully seated, this will cause the voltage to arch causing a burning smell.

Disconnect the QS8 connect and inspect the severity of the arch burn. Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab may be required.

After cleaning, if there is any evidence of damage remaining, remove and replace battery lid / battery leads.

If brake pads are less than 2mm, recommend replacing brake pads.

If brake pads are greater than 2mm, recommend inspecting and adjusting brake lever freeplay per User Guide

If the sprocket teeth are looking rounded out, replace motor sprocket

Note: It is recommended to replace chain, motor sprocket and wheel sprocket at the same time

If the sprocket teeth are looking like shark fins, it is time to replace.

Note: It is recommended to replace chain, motor sprocket and wheel sprocket at the same time

If they are dry, apply grease to the bolts and reinstall.

Additional grease between the shock bushings and the shock housing may be needed

This has to do with the hub centricity of the sprocket side hub. This is currently within manufacturing specifications. Our product team has done thousands of hours of testing and have not seen any performance issues with this behavior. A thing to note when tensioning your chain is to locate the "tight" spot and adjust the chain tension to the low end of the 1-10mm spec per the ETM RTR User Guide. From there, you should be good to go.

Our product team has been working with our wheel supplier to tighten up the tolerance on the wheels, however, this is a current characteristic that is within manufacturing specifications. 

Unexpected steering performance/Movement in front end/Clunking under braking or acceleration/Clunking on uneven surfaces

If loose, check torque on headset triples.

If headset is properly torqued and there is still excessive play, headset bearings have suffered non-repairable damage, remove and replace upper and lower headset bearings

Handlebars move under load

Oil on fork leg or under front of bike

Pump forks and check

if oil leaks past seal

To center your brake caliper:

1. Loosen the 2 bolts that secure the brake caliper onto the brake caliper bracket so that they're hand tight

2. Firmly press the brake lever of the caliper you are adjusting

3. While holding the brake lever, tighten the two hand tight bolts

4. This should ensure your caliper is as centered as possible on the brake rotor to prevent drag

If the sprocket teeth are looking rounded out, replace motor sprocket

Note: It is recommended to replace chain, motor sprocket and wheel sprocket at the same time