Wheel bearings are exposed to water, dirt, impact, and heavy loads. Bearings should be replaced if they feel rough, bind while turning, make grinding noises, show rust, or have noticeable side-to-side movement.

Important: Bearing sizes, installation depths, spacer arrangements, circlip locations, and torque specifications vary by motorcycle. Take photos during disassembly and refer to the manufacturer’s service manual whenever possible.

TOOLS NEEDED

Recommended Tools

• Blind-bearing puller with expanding collets
• Slide hammer
• Bearing press or bearing installation tool
• Bearing driver set
• Heat gun or hair dryer
• Freezer
• Torque wrench
• Waterproof bearing grease
• Cleaning solvent and shop towels
• Safety glasses and heat-resistant gloves

Alternative Removal Tools

If a bearing puller and slide hammer are not available, most accessible bearings can be removed using:

• Long ratchet extension, drift, or punch
• Hammer
• Large sockets for use as bearing drivers

A proper brass or steel drift is preferred, but a long ratchet extension can work when used carefully. Avoid striking an extension so aggressively that it chips, mushrooms, or damages the bearing housing.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

• Securely support the motorcycle before removing the wheel or swingarm.
• Remove the battery or disconnect the main power source on an electric motorcycle.
• Wear safety glasses when using a hammer, puller, press, or heat source.
• Keep heat and open flame away from batteries, fuel, brake cleaner, grease, shop towels, tires, and other flammable materials.
• A heat gun or hair dryer is preferred over an open-flame torch.
• Do not use a torch on a wheel with the tire installed.
• Apply heat to the bearing housing—not directly to the bearing.
• Do not overheat aluminum parts. Stop if the finish begins to discolor, smoke, or show signs of damage.
• Never drive a new bearing into place by striking its inner race.

PREPARING THE NEW BEARINGS

Cooling the new bearings slightly reduces their outside diameter and can make installation easier.

1. Confirm that the replacement bearings match the original bearing numbers and dimensions.
2. Leave each bearing in its sealed packaging or place it inside a clean, sealed plastic bag.
3. Put the bearings in a freezer for several hours or overnight.
4. Keep the bearings sealed until installation to reduce condensation.
5. Once removed from the freezer, install them promptly.

WHEEL-BEARING REMOVAL

STEP 1 — REMOVE THE WHEEL

Place the motorcycle securely on a stand and remove the wheel following the manufacturer’s procedure.

Remove and organize:

• Axle
• Wheel spacers
• Brake-caliper hardware, when necessary
• Speedometer drive or sensor components, when equipped

Keep the left- and right-side spacers separated. They may look similar while having different lengths or shoulders.

STEP 2 — WARM THE HUB

Use a heat gun to warm the hub evenly around the bearing bore.

Move the heat continuously around the hub rather than concentrating it in one spot. Heating the aluminum hub causes it to expand slightly, reducing the force required to remove the bearing.

Do not direct excessive heat toward:

• The tire
• Brake rotor
• Paint or powder coating
• Plastic components
• Remaining seals
• Grease or cleaning chemicals

A torch may be used cautiously on a bare hub by an experienced technician, but a heat gun is the safer option.

STEP 3 — REMOVE THE BEARING WITH A PULLER

A blind-bearing puller with a slide hammer is the preferred removal method.

1. Select the collet that fits tightly inside the bearing.
2. Insert the collet through the bearing’s inner race.
3. Expand the collet so it locks securely behind the bearing.
4. Attach the slide hammer.
5. Keep the puller aligned with the center of the bearing.
6. Use controlled slide-hammer impacts until the bearing pulls free.

Remove the internal wheel spacer after the first bearing has been removed.

Repeat the procedure for the bearing on the opposite side.

STEP 3 — ALTERNATIVE HAMMER-AND-DRIFT METHOD

When a puller is not available, a long drift, punch, or ratchet extension can be inserted through the opposite side of the hub.

1. Push the internal wheel spacer slightly to one side.
2. Position the end of the drift against the back edge of the bearing.
3. Tap the bearing outward with a hammer.
4. Move to the opposite side of the bearing and tap again.
5. Continue working evenly around the bearing.

STEP 4 — CLEAN AND INSPECT THE HUB

Clean the bearing bores, spacer, and hub surfaces.

Inspect for:

• Cracks
• Corrosion
• Burrs
• Deep scratches
• Distorted bearing bores
• Loose bearing fit
• Worn or crushed center spacer
• Excessive aluminum material on the removed bearing

Remove minor burrs carefully without enlarging the bore.

If a new bearing can be pushed into the hub by hand when both parts are at room temperature, the bearing bore may be worn or damaged. Do not rely on glue or retaining compound unless specifically approved by the manufacturer.

WHEEL-BEARING INSTALLATION

STEP 1 — CONFIRM THE INSTALLATION ORDER

Before installing anything, confirm:

• Which bearing goes on each side
• The correct center-spacer orientation
• The correct bearing depth

Use your disassembly photos or refer to the parts diagram.

STEP 2 — WARM THE HUB

Warm the bearing area evenly with a heat gun or hair dryer.

The hub should be moderately and evenly heated. It should never be heated until the finish smokes, burns, or discolors.

Remove the first bearing from the freezer only when the hub and installation tools are ready.

STEP 3 — INSTALL THE FIRST BEARING

Position the bearing squarely over the bore.

Use one of the following:

• Bearing press
• Threaded bearing installer
• Bearing driver
• Large socket that contacts only the bearing’s outer race

Press or tap the bearing in evenly.

STEP 4 — INSTALL THE CENTER SPACER

Place the internal wheel spacer into the hub in the same orientation in which it was removed.

Confirm that:

• The spacer is not bent or crushed.
• The ends are not mushroomed.
• It sits between the two bearing inner races.
• It is properly centered before the second bearing is installed.

The center spacer prevents the axle from side-loading the wheel bearings when the axle is tightened.

STEP 5 — INSTALL THE SECOND BEARING

Warm the second side of the hub if needed and remove the second bearing from the freezer.

Install the bearing squarely, applying force only to the outer race.

Press or tap it to the correct depth. Stop once it is fully seated according to the original arrangement or service specification.

Do not continue driving the bearing after it has seated. Excessive force can crush the center spacer or place unwanted side load on the bearings.

After installation, the center spacer may move slightly from side to side but should remain captured between the bearings.

STEP 6 — REINSTALL THE WHEEL

Reinstall the wheel spacers in their correct positions and mount the wheel.

Tighten the following to the motorcycle manufacturer’s specifications:

• Axle nut
• Axle pinch bolts
• Brake-caliper bolts
• Brake-rotor hardware, if removed

After installation:

1. Spin the wheel by hand.
2. Check for smooth rotation.
3. Confirm that the wheel does not bind.
4. Check for side-to-side movement.
5. Operate the brake several times before riding.
6. Verify that the brake rotor is correctly aligned in the caliper.